Improvement in boot and shoe soles



0 GOODYEAR, Jr.& J. DA SILVA. BOOT AND SHOE SOLE.

No. 113,420. I 4 Patented Apr. 4, 1 871.

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UNITED S'rA'rns CHARLES GOODYEAR, JR.,- OF New ROCHELLE, AND JOZE DA I SILVA, or-

PATENT 'QFFIG -WILL IAMS BURG, NEW YORK, ASSIGNORS TO CHARLES GOODYEAR, JR.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 113,420, dated April 4, 187i;

jib an whomit may concern:

. Be itknown that we,-CmrtLns GoonYnAn,

Jr., of NewRochelle, in the county of West- ,chesterand v State of New York. and J OZE DA SILVA, of -Williamsburg, in the county of Queens and State of New York,-have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Boot and Shoe Soles, of which thef'following is a specification:

In the accompanying drawing, Figure 14 is a. perspective view of a boot or shoe sole made in accordance with our invention. The remaining figures represent diagrams of portions of soles intended. to more fully illustrate the nature and advantages of our invention, and the points in which the sole we'produce differs from others heretofore made.

Hitherto, in preparing soles tobesewed by machinery, whether for welts or turned work,

it has been customary to channel the sole, as indicated in Figs. 1,2,3 4, a representingthe flap cutfor the inner channel, and b'representing the outer channel; the soles cut as shown Figs. 1, 2, and 4 being designed for what are termed mock-welts or turned shoes, having a thick edge to the sole when finished, and the sole represented byFig. 3

being similar to those used either for welted work or French edge turned work. Y

When the sole. is prepared ineither of th modes above described. it is difficult in ma chine/sewing to avoid, imperfections, for the reason that theneedle is apt to pointout? too high, or, in other words, to penetrate the sole above the bottom of the outer channel, as illu'sQ trated in Fig. 5, where the dotted hne indi-.

cates the path of the needle. If the needle, as

is very often the ease, points out at the upper edge or corner 0 of the outer channel, the thread cannot take a suflicient hold upon the leather to keep the upper from pulling up and causing the work. to have a bad appearance, or, in the language of shoe-makers, to grin at you. It is always desirable to point out as near as possible to the point 6-. that is to say,ithe bottom of the edge groove. or channel; but, owing to variations in the quality of the stock, and to other causes, this result is not, as before stated, always arrived at; and, even when it is attained, the sewing, if the sole be thin, and soft and the edge groove proportionately shallow, will still,

. flange of any particular dimensions.

I at times, present the objectionable appearance above alluded to. 1

.To remedy these and other difficulties is the object of our invention, which consists of a boot or shoe sole in which there is combined with the usual inner channel an outer or edge channel, formed, not by cutting out a portion of the stock along the edge, but by making an incision in. the edge of the sole of such depth that alip'or flange is produced, which may .be turned back so that it will standl nearly at right angles with the path of the needle, and form a support to the upper when the latter is sewed to the sole. I

The manner in which our invention is or may bcs'carried into effect is represented in Figs. 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, and- 14. Thoincision n,sl1own, for'instance, in Fig. 11 is -will, when the channel is formed as described,

take a flrm hold upon the leather. In other words, the flange or .lip thus forumd has the .efi'eot to deepen the'channel, or to make that side of it which is subjected to the thrust of the needle much higher than has heretofore been practiced.

In preparing soles for ivclts, or to be finished with a French edge, a portion of the sole from the bottomof the channel should be removed to formthe beveled edge required for this kind of work, as represented in Fig. 8, the shaded portion of thesole in that figure rep-.

resenting the part which should be cut away.

It is ovious that the incision a may be made obliquely or parallel with reference to the plane of the sole, as represented in Figs. 9 and 11, and that it may be either straight or- .curved, as shown in Fig. 10; and that, if desired, a portion of the lip or flange may be cut away, as' indicated in Fig. 12, still leaving a flange of sufficient length to be turned up.

As hereinbefore specified, the sole is, of course, provided with an-inner channel or groove, a,

' the general direction of which is parallel with that of the outer or edge channel, and formed by making an incision in. the sole, or in any other suitable manner.

Shoes with soles prepared in accordance with our invention are lasted in the usual manner, care being taken, in driving the tacks, not toturn down the flange m. .nfter the sole, is sewed, theraised portion of the flan'ge is cut away and trimmed off as close as can be with safety to the sole inorder to have-a smooth finish when it is hammered on the last. Shoes thus finished are stronger and more durable than those prepared in the manner heretofore practiced, as the turned-up flange lbracksets the stitch and forms a much stronger edge. y

Another material advantage resulting from this mode of preparing thesole, is'th at the' -turned-up edge" flange, togetherwith the lip or flange of the inside channel, give such a formation to the sole that the two jaws or gages of the sewing-machine can take firm hold of the outer edge as well as the inside channel, as represented i'nFi'g. 13, in which aand I) represent the two jaws; 0, the flange of.

the edge channel; 01, the sole; 'e,' the lip covering the inner channel, f, the upper; g, the needle and h, a portion of the last.

Another result of this construction of the channels is that the shoe may be sewed upon take hold of the leather.

Having now described our invention, and the manner in which the same is or. maybe carried into effect, what we claim, and desire to secureby Letters Patent, is-

A boot or'shoe'sole provided with an edge lip or flange, formedsubstantially in the man ner vdesc'ribed,and an inner channel or groove, the two following lines parallel. with the edge of the ;sole, -substantially as shown and' set forth;

In testimony whereof we have signed our. names to this specification before two subscribing witnesses.

CHAS. GOODYEAR, JR.-

. I JOZE DA' SILVA. Witnesses:

A. AaAL vORD, IR.'A PIP ER. 

